Clarks Beach

It is a cold Sunday morning in June as I set out early. The corolla says it's 3° outside.

I'm hoping to find a way to Kidd's Shellbanks on the edge of Hikihiki on the Manukau Harbour. It sounds like a birding mecca.

The map looks like there may be routes down to the edge of the Manukau. There's not much I can find on the internet about access – other than the ominous-sounding "(restricted)."

The on-ground situation is different from the map view, and consistent with the access description. So I fall back to Clarks Beach, wondering how far I can wander along this remote harbour coastline.

It's a special place. Short, sandy, sheer cliffs ring Karaka Point. The baches and homes of Clarks Beach cling to the edge of the harbour. The sun rises over a flat, still, calm, receding tide, revealing mud flats – and birds.

I spy many of the usual suspects – tūī | parson bird, tōrea | variable and pied oystercatcher, matuku | white-faced heron, karoro | black-backed gull, tarā nui | caspian tern, tarāpunga | red-billed gull, rock pigeon, kakīānau | black swan, kōtare | kingfisher fishing the coastline, poaka | pied stilt, and manu pango.

And I spot a few special guests – kuaka | bar-tailed, kōtuku ngutupapa | royal spoonbill, tūturiwhatu | banded dotterel, matuku moana | reef heron, and tarāpuka | black-billed gull.

Four hours and eleven kilometres of beach walking and mud-flat wading. Kidd's Shell Bank not reached, but a delightful menagerie of birds sighted.